Roma

After a weekend of staying in Siena to host my friend Giacomo, who came to visit me from the northern Italian town of Alpignano, near Torino, I took a weekend trip to Rome two weeks ago! I immediately fell in love with the city, it's so much bigger than my little Siena and has such an excitingly ancient vibe. Last semester, I took a wonderful class about the art and archaeology of Ancient Rome, and I had such a grand time walking through and touching the ruins of the buildings I learned so much about but had only seen in PowerPoint presentations. I loved how ruins are just juxtaposed against medieval and modern buildings! I must admit, I walked up to so many crumbling archways and walls and ran my hands over the pocked facade because I was so in awe. Romans touched and built those same structures with their own hands two thousand years ago, and it was an extraordinary experience to see the remains of their magnificent empire. I arrived Friday the 18th and spent the evening walking around and locating my hostel - a friend and I stayed at a bed and breakfast called Mamma Mia, which was clean, secure, and affordable, but a bit out of the way.. I would recommend looking at a map of where your hostel is located before choosing, just because the buses and metro stopped running before midnight and it was a long walk back after going out at night. It's also terrible to be standing in the middle of a dark piazza at 2 am trying to figure out which of the four surrounding roads leads you the right way!

The next day I got to explore the Colosseum - going inside blew my mind, it's such an epic structure and it was really cool seeing the series of tunnels where the gladiators waited beneath what would have been the stadium's floor. I waited in line for about 40 minutes before finally getting my ticket, but a friend later told me that since the ticket includes admission to the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill/Forum area, you can go to the Forum first and save a lot of time since the line over there tends to be much shorter. Next time I'll know :) After the Colosseum, I spend a lot of time wandering the gorgeous ruins of the Palatine Hill, where there were tons of ancient palace ruins as well as a sunny park area (I wanted so badly to lie there in the sun!), then headed over to the Forum. This was super exciting to me, the archaeology nerd, and I ran around snapping photos of the Basilica Aemilia and the Temple of Saturn. It's unfortunate it's become such a touristy area (says I, the tourist) because it feels as if it should be a peaceful, quiet place to contemplate the ancientness of the location. However, it was still fantastic, albeit less charming than I had originally hoped thanks to the creepy gladiator actors that perused the streets outside asking to a)take a picture with you for only 5 euro, and b)meet up for evening drinks. I got out of there, fast.

We made the mistake of going to this awful American 50s diner-esque restaurant for lunch because I was craving a burger (to be fair, I've had only Italian food for the past 5 weeks! I know, what a travesty, right?). Sadly, it turned out to be one of the worst meals of all time, with nasty bright yellow fries, greasy buns, and a tiny piece of meat. Sad times. Luckily, Rome redeemed itself when we ran into a fantastic gelateria near the Pantheon - hundreds of flavors and cute Roman Holiday decor. Viewed the outside of the Pantheon and wandered around pretty Piazza Navona, then went "home" to change for dinner. We took the bus to Trastevere on the other side of the Tiber and ate at the delightful Osteria Pucci, where I had a bowl of pasta with ricotta, zucchini, and bacon. We searched for a good club, since Trastevere is apparently the place to be as far as nightlife goes, but weren't successful - no good discotecas in sight! Across the river we found some American student bars that were ok, but the true nightlife of Rome remains a mystery to me.

The next morning we got up to see the Vatican - unfortunately, it was Sunday so mass was going on inside and I couldn't see the Sistine Chapel, etc, but it was pretty cool to see the outside of it. A screen was projecting the words from the mass (in Italian, of course). After having some amazing pizza for lunch, and exhausted after lugging our bags across the city, my friend and I got on a bus and decided to just relax on it and let it take us to wherever it was going. We got off at the Circus Maximus, a bizarre sight - just a massive dirt oval edged with ruins. It was the largest chariot-racing stadium of Rome back in the day. I hated leaving Rome after just two days, I feel like it would take several weeks to adequately explore! Didn't mind too much though, I do love my scenic bus rides.

Exploration

What a week (and a half)! I've spent a lot of time adjusting to my surroundings, which means something new each day. Last week I went several CET outings, the first being a cooking class at Fonte Giusta, an amazing restaurant in Siena in the Camollia section. I got to see the kitchen from which all the gorgeous ravioli and cinghiale and pane, etc. are born, and the owner of the restaurant was enthusiastic about having us get our hands dirty and mix ingredients with our fingers to create batches of almond biscotti, homemade pasta, and eggplant/spinach/ricotta-filled tortellini. He didn't speak a word of English. Unfortunately, this meant that I am not much closer to achieving my goal of becoming a master Italian chef by the time I return home, but I did get to see some pretty cool stuff. Eggs yolks here are vibrant shades of red-orange, and I learned how to fold up a square of pasta around some filling into a fancy napkin-shaped tortellini. Afterwards, the real chefs topped our wobbly creations with fantastic sauces and kept the food coming until I thought I was literally going to explode. We got a doggie-bag of biscotti to bring home, too!

Another highlight was a visit to the Onda Contrada museum near San Francesco, several blocks behind the Piazza del Campo. A unique little church houses the memorabilia of this contrada's Palio wins, and serves as a neighborhood stronghold for baptisms and other blessings. The space within Siena's walls is divided into 17 contradas, or neighborhoods, and people are very, very loyal to their communities. If you are born in one contrada, you remain a member of it for life even if you move to a different one. This makes for strong internal bonds among the people of the city, but also makes it difficult for outsiders to truly integrate. The Onda (Wave) contrada museum and crypt were full of ornate religious decorations, tons of hand-painted silk banners, and historical Palio costumes. These banners are the prize for winning the famed Palio, or contrada horse race, that takes place in the Piazza del Campo every July.

Saturday I left Siena to take a day-trip to Arezzo, where they were having their monthly antique market. This occurs the first weekend of each month, and was so much more widespread than I expected: tables and furniture covered every street of the city. After browsing, I also saw the inside of the Duomo, the famous frescoes of San Francesco, and Giorgio Vasari's house. Vasari is a major figure in Arezzo, he's known for writing a comprehensive book about the lives and works of the famous artists of his day (and before), and this year marks the 500th anniversary of his birth. (Arezzo is also Roberto Benigni's hometown!) It was remarkable to see the difference in style between the two cities, Arezzo was much airier and open than Siena. However, I find myself loving the ancient stone palazzi of Siena and the feeling of medieval history that radiates from every brick of every towering building.

The rest of the weekend, I wandered the streets of Siena intending to visit all 17 contradas, but I only made it to the end of my own (L'Aquila - Eagle) before I came across a pretty park behind San Agostino near Porta Tufi that overlooks the Tuscan countryside. I ended up spending the entire afternoon lying in the grass bathed in sunshine and reading a book. Perfetto.